The first thing I notice when I arrive on the Big Island is the heat. A pleasant humidity greets me like a warm hug as soon as I step off the plane. Suddenly I’m transported to the month of August in the Midwest. Next, I notice the smell. The air smells sweet, like summertime, so fresh and so clean and with the hint of flowers in full bloom. When we arrive at Maureen’s Bed & Breakfast, I hear a chorus of Coqui frogs singing to each other. Like birds softly chirping and every few seconds, a sharp whistle sounds. These smells and sounds of nature. I’m in love.
Though I’m on an island in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, Maureen’s Bed & Breakfast feels so familiar to me. The decor and bedding remind me of a grandmother’s house. Suave, V05, Irish Spring. These are the shower products of my childhood and I found them all in Maureen’s bathroom. I landed on the Big Island and stepped back in time.
In talking to Maureen, I learned that the house was built in 1930 when a Hawaiian woman and her Japanese husband commissioned a Japanese architect to design a home for their eight children. I love the rounded doorways, the farmhouse-style bedrooms, the grand staircase, the endless screened-in porch. The house beautifully intertwines elements of both cultures, and I can just imagine how fun it was to grow up here.
“I already live in paradise. When I die and go to heaven, it’ll be a lateral move!”
We leave Maureen’s and drive to the Hilo Farmer’s Market. It’s bustling with tourists who are asking about the different types of fruits and vegetables. I’ve never seen ginseng and turmeric so thick, avocados the size of softballs, pineapples so golden. And, there were so many types of fruits completely new to me. I pay $3 for a small bunch of apple bananas and a handful of mountain apples.
We make our way to Isaac Hale Park, where a new black sand beach formed from last year’s lava flow. I didn’t realize until coming here that lava was such a major part of Hawaii’s existence. I need a refresher on geology, pronto. Lava is seemingly everywhere on the Big Island. Like huge piles of plowed snow in Chicago after a blizzard, lava sits in heaps in parking lots, near beaches, on the side of the road. Near the Kona Airport, fields of lava stretch as far as the eye can see. Small goats nibble on the flora that’s sprouted in between the cracks.
Our first day consists of mostly driving from the east side of the island to the west. In that two-hour drive, we go from humid rainforest to dry desert heat. The Big Island is one of the rare places on earth where several different climates, terrains, and ecosystems exist together.
swimming with Dolphins
The next morning, we decide to go kayaking and snorkeling. There’s a little bay near Captain Cook where locals rent out kayaks and snorkel gear. The water is choppy getting out of the bay and as we paddle out, I thank pilates for strengthening my arms and shoulders. Just before the Captain Cook Monument, we spot a calmer bay where other kayakers are snorkeling. I stretch the snorkel mask over my head and jump into the water. Open water slightly terrifies me so when I hear my friend yell “dolphins”, I instantly panic and grab onto our kayak.
What if they attack me? I freak out imagining them trying to bite me. I turn around and see my friend swim confidently with her head underwater. I relax, squeeze my mask tight to my face, and follow suit.
The world below the ocean’s surface is one I’ve never seen before. And, it is magical. The water is warm, clean, and dark blue. Plankton floats under the surface, like dust dancing in a sunny attic. Little yellow fish dart around. I lift my head back up to de-fog my mask and see dolphin fins swimming in my direction. About five fins glide through the water. I quickly put my mask back on and look for them. The dolphins swim just three yards below me, and there are more than I thought. I count 17 in the pod. They seem to know not to get close to me and maintain their distance. For a moment, they are all around me and I desperately want to hang onto the moment forever. I feel a wave of peace rush over me as I watch in complete awe.
Luckily for us, the pod decides to hangout in the bay, making their way from one end to the other. Back-and-forth, they slowly swim. Sometimes, it was just as neat to observe them above the water. They’re definitely spinner dolphins, I hear a kayaker say. The dolphins leap out of the water in front of us, twirling like ballerinas on a stage. Wildlife encounters can be so brief, but I’ll remember them for a lifetime.
It’s a privilege to be able to observe wild animals in their natural habitat. It’s their space that we’re intruding upon, after all. The dolphins welcomed us, gave us a glimpse into their world. For that, I am so grateful. The experience inspires me to help keep our oceans clean, eat less seafood, and reduce my plastic waste. I want to be able to bring my kids and grandkids back to Hawaii someday so they can have these same magical moments.
Over the rivers & through the woods, deep into the valley I go
On our last full day on the Big Island, I decide to do some solo trekking in Waipi’o Valley. I park the car at the lookout and immediately see a gorgeous view of the black sand beach, the lush valley, and the river that runs through it. I’m excited to hike on my own. I wave goodbye to the park ranger and make my way down the near vertical valley wall. I’m sweating before I even start my descent.
The valley is massive and majestic - one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen. When I finally get to the bottom, I am faced with a fork in the road. Turn right, the ranger said, and I’d see the Hi'ilawe Falls. Turn left, and I’d eventually end up at the beach. I decide to turn right and explore as much of the valley floor as I can before ending at the ocean. I follow the path, expecting to see a small waterfall hidden in the woods. Instead, my mouth drops when I see a 1,450-foot cascade. I am stunned, and I can’t turn my eyes away from the sight.
Exploring the valley reminds me of the scene in King Kong (Peter Jackson’s version) when the crew first steps onto Skull Island and walks through the jungle. Everything seems bigger, greener, wilder. But unlike the crew, I’m unafraid. In fact, I welcome the unknown and the untamed. I soak in the sun, the heat, the humidity, knowing that this experience will soon be a fond memory.
“The word “plankton” comes from the Greek meaning “drifter” or “wanderer”.”
when in hawaii
Photos will never do the beauty of Hawaii justice. Take some photos and then try to put your camera away. Breathe in deeply the salty air, relish the sound of the crashing waves.
At night, look up at the stars. They always seem bigger to me when I’m in Hawaii.
Visit the farmers’ markets for plastic-free snacks. Especially the delicious fruit.
